GRAPHENlube ® Wax lubricant - efficiency redefined

*Able to hold sub 5 Watts of frictional loss over 900km on a Single application (in dry, low dust road conditions. After immersive lubing)
*It gives you “free” power regardless the conditions- read more below.
*Extends life of your drivetrain, hence saving on replacement costs.
*Repels water and does not attract dirt
*Dry, paste like coating that can stay on the chain over 1800km (in dry, low dust road conditions. After immersive lubing)
*Unique black look of the lubricant when dry
*Safe- Does not contain any harmful solvents.

In simple terms it’s a “wax” based water emulsion, with a special mix of high purity graphene, that is liquid when you apply and becomes almost solid when it dries on the chain. Wax based lubricants exhibit far greater tolerance to water and dirt contamination, successfully separating moving chain parts from abrasion and filling in all the imperfections on friction surfaces. Graphene – the wonder material that is still not commonly used because of its incredibly high cost, is a great additive for a few reasons. It has extremely low friction coefficient in all the environments, is far stronger than any known material to a man and it can cling to metal protecting friction surfaces from excessive abrasion. Moreover, it repels the water and is not permeable to air reducing therefore oxidative stress on the metal surface. Even a single atom layer is enough to reduce the friction considerably.

It took us two years to find the right ratio of crumpled to non-crumpled graphene, size of graphene platelets, dispersion rate of agglomerates, concentration and finally figuring out a low friction hydrocarbon emulsion base that will stay on the chain for very long time and not chip away like paraffin wax is known for. The end result is a lubricant that on a single application will hold sub 5 Watts of frictional losses over 900km distance. We have created essentially a new category of performance lubricants.

But why should you care about this number?

For the same reason why Pro Tour teams are eager to use it. It gives you “free” power regardless the conditions.

Despite of the fact that both of these materials are only built from carbon atoms, the similarity ends here. Graphene possesses completely different mechanical and tribological properties to graphite. For example, graphite exhibits 0.1-0.2 COF (coefficient of friction) in very humid air, but 0.5-0.7 COF when air is dry, which is very high friction comparable to steel on steel sliding without lubrication. Graphene, on the other hand, is very stable across full spectrum of humidity with 0.1-0.2 COF. Graphene also possesses incredible mechanical strength allowing it to effectively separate metal surfaces and suppressing wear rate by 1-2 orders of magnitude in comparison to graphite. To sum up, using graphite instead of graphene in the same solution, would produce completely adverse results.

Graph1. Power Loss vs distance travelled among different lubricants. Results from an independent, single lube application, double blind test where the test chains were appropriately prepared by Zero Friction Cycling* then numbered and sent directly to Wheel Energy company to conduct a friction test at 250W resistance, 100rpm cadence, 40km/h speed, 25deg C and 25% humidity. The test continued until chain reached 10W losses. Chains and testing machine had around 50km warmup/break-in period. (* "Muc-off Nano" was a factory NTC chain)

This test reveals how lubricant and its friction changes over driven kilometres on a single lubricant application. The higher the number the more Watts you are losing. With “wet/semi wet” lubes friction first decreases because chain gets drier and therefore stiction decreases. Until it reaches more or less dry state – the friction then increases due to starvation of lubricant and abrasion. For “dry” lubes/films, stiction is already minimal, so they will only increase in friction due to coating wearing out.

To understand why this test is so important, let’s look how power is generated on the bike. When you press on the pedals, this force/torque is then transferred through the chain to the rear hub. If you happen to own Crank based power meter you can see power number represented in Watts. However, power generated at the crank does not equal power at the hub due to frictional losses. The majority of those loses are due to hundreds of articulations of chain link elements per second. Therefore, the above graph shows how much less power is delivered to the rear wheel compared to the power at the crank. Or in other words you would have to increase power at the crank if you want to retain the same speed with passing kilometres. Even the best lubricated chain in perfect laboratory conditions still generates about 4W of frictional losses from the start. Shimano Dura-Ace chain out of the box for example, varies between 6.5-13W. It’s not possible to avoid this loss.

But what we can do is to minimize this loss and keep it low for a long time. In other words, it’s “free” power you (re-)gain at the rear wheel while pushing exactly the same watts at the crank. We don’t create extra watts, but we regain part of the inevitable losses due to drivetrain friction.

We have also conducted a simple test comparing lubricants where we used a rider instead of an electric engine to propel the cranks. On the above video you can see how big role lubricants play in transmitting power to the rear wheel. It's an exact same setup as riding on a turbo-trainer (Imagine those Zwift gains!). By mere change of the lubricant, the rider in this test gained 7.3W. Or another words had to push less by 7.3W (that is 12N or 1.2kg / 2.65lbs) on each pedal stroke while keeping the same cadence and gear at fixed 250W power output.

1. Wipe the chain with a cloth. (Use gloves)

2. Shake the bottle. Apply the lube continuously to the inside of a chain turning cranks backwards (simple dripping procedure).

3. Let the lube dry for a min. of 2h before riding, ideally overnight.

*For absolute maximum Racing performance where every watt counts, re-lube (by dripping) every 600km or sooner in dry conditions and after every wet ride. If you race, apply a day before the race.

*For everyday riding you can re-lube (by dripping) between 900-1200km in dry road conditions and after 3-4 rides in wet conditions or when you hear chain becomes dry.

*Always apply to a dry chain.

FIRST APPLICATION: Take the chain off the bike or use brand new chain and clean it using a solvent (like White Spirit or mineral turps) by immersing the chain completely in the solvent for 20-60min using the poly bag that was delivered with the large lube bottle (Use gloves). Shake the bag with chain for 1min at the end. Take chain out and let it fully dry (2-12h). Fully immerse the chain in the lube (use second poly bag) for about 2-10min. You will need to pour at min 30ml of the lube to the bag, ideally 50ml or more (you will recycle the rest back to the bottle). You should gently shake and articulate the links through the bag. Remove the chain, hang it in place with good airflow, not touching anything and let it dry completely (Ideally overnight). With this initial procedure you will use up about 10-15ml of lube - rest you will pour back to the bottle to be reused. You need min 2x 14ml bottles (or a big one) to do initial immersion. We recommend wearing gloves and safety glasses during the first application procedure.

In case of eye contact, flush with lukewarm water. If ingested seek medical advice. Keep out of the reach of children. Product is not flammable - contains water.

Watch the video to find out more

GRAPHENlube proves again to be the best lubricant on the market. Road.cc tested GRAPHENlube vs CeramicSpeed v2 vs Revolube